Troubleshoot 2018 F-150 install

[LiveWire113]

Hello CBRT. I've been out of the radio game for over 7 years. Just got a new truck and found all my old equipment so decided to get the mobile back in action. Current setup is a Cobra Black Chrome 29, DK 2w and swing 15w, going into a Dave Made 5-pill (1x2290, 4x2879) and going out through either a Wilson 5000 or Predator 10k (both are at ~1.1 SWR).

So previously this was all installed in a 2006 Ram 2500 and it talked really well. Its still talking pretty good, but I wasn't seeing the numbers I wanted out of the amp, only ~230 Bird, 550 PEP (Radio Shack meter while I wait for Peak kit for Bird meter). Took the amp to the local shop who put it on his bench and said it is doing what it should be doing (1000w peak). He suggested perhaps I wasn't getting enough current to the amp, but I have no way to test that.

I have noticed varying voltages and then realized that Ford has some kind of Battery Management System, but I'm not sure if that is the reason behind the voltage variances. At any rate, I'm seeing about 12.8v at the amp terminals and if I key and modulate for 10+ seconds that will drop to 11v. I'm sure this is affecting power output to some degree, but numbers still seem low, even at 11v.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike

[sonoma]

sounds like you are not going straight to the battery for your power. if you are hooked up to the power under the dash will cause some problem like you are having.
I have a equinox and if you leave a door open for about 20 minutes it will turn the power off to the door switches so you do not run the battery down.

[LiveWire113]

Nah, I have a 4ga wire running from the positive battery terminal to the amp and another 4ga wire running from the amp to a seat bolt for ground. Thanks for the suggestion though Sonoma, I appreciate you getting back.

sounds like you are not going straight to the battery for your power. if you are hooked up to the power under the dash will cause some problem like you are having.
I have a equinox and if you leave a door open for about 20 minutes it will turn the power off to the door switches so you do not run the battery down.

[sonoma]

If you have them running to the Pos Battery and a seat bolt the computer is not shutting the battery down unless they have a new type battery out that shuts its self down.
are you checking the voltage with the motor running or with it shut off. with the motor shut off the voltage will drop a lot from the 12.8 volts most batterys have just setting

[sonoma]

I was thinking about this and I have a texas start 500V amp that I run some times and it will not have full voltage to it even at idle. if I rev the engine up to about 1500 rpm the alt will keep the voltage up a little higher to get the out put up. at idle the alt will not keep the voltage up enough for the amp to run right.

[MDYoungblood]

You definitely have a voltage/amperage problem, new (2016 and newer), have what you said, a battery monitoring system and it stinks. The amp you are running needs way more then the system can put out. The only help might be if you bought the vehicle with the factory installed trailer towing package which included a larger alternator and battery, plus the system is designed to run at 13.8V (motor running).
If you have this check the voltage on the trailer hookup plug, it is independent from the vehicle, that is where you want to hook up the amp. Last thing is even running that large of an amp will probably shut the vehicle down, cause the led's to flash, and may be detrimental to some of the electronic components.
Now, I am not sure about Ford or Chevrolet, but Ram (Dodge, Chrysler, and Jeep included) dealers can flash the firmware of the computer to make the charging system work as it should, the alternator will put out 14.2v all the time while running. You will have to go to a dealership for this.

3's

Greg

[LiveWire113]

Sonama, thanks again for the feedback. I'm checking voltage with the motor running. At idle and with revving the engine, the voltage doesn't change.

If you have them running to the Pos Battery and a seat bolt the computer is not shutting the battery down unless they have a new type battery out that shuts its self down.
are you checking the voltage with the motor running or with it shut off. with the motor shut off the voltage will drop a lot from the 12.8 volts most batterys have just setting

[LiveWire113]

The truck does have the max tow package on it and comes with a 200 amp alternator so I don't think it should have any problem running a 5-pill amp. I tried to check voltage at the trailer hookup today, but wasn't able to find anything more than what I was seeing inside the cab at the amp leads which was 12.48 amps. Additionally, I think hooking up back there will be an issue because the wires aren't large enough for the draw, IMO.

I will check in with my local dealer though to see if there is a way to get me all the alternator can do with a flash.

Thanks for the feedback Greg!

Mike

You definitely have a voltage/amperage problem, new (2016 and newer), have what you said, a battery monitoring system and it stinks. The amp you are running needs way more then the system can put out. The only help might be if you bought the vehicle with the factory installed trailer towing package which included a larger alternator and battery, plus the system is designed to run at 13.8V (motor running).
If you have this check the voltage on the trailer hookup plug, it is independent from the vehicle, that is where you want to hook up the amp. Last thing is even running that large of an amp will probably shut the vehicle down, cause the led's to flash, and may be detrimental to some of the electronic components.
Now, I am not sure about Ford or Chevrolet, but Ram (Dodge, Chrysler, and Jeep included) dealers can flash the firmware of the computer to make the charging system work as it should, the alternator will put out 14.2v all the time while running. You will have to go to a dealership for this.

3's

Greg

[LiveWire113]

So, a little update. I've figured out how to disable the BMS and get a constant 14-14.4v; when keying this drops to ~13.6-13.8v. I'm seeing 300w on my Bird43, which seems low but I'm not really sure; I'm awaiting a PEP kit for the meter and I'll see what it does with that.



I'll update again once I get more info. Appreciate everyone's feedback and sorry for the delay in updating.